Find a Good Pinot Grigio at a Good Price
Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are synonyms. Grigio is the Italian spelling for grey while Gris is the French spelling. When buying wines from elsewhere on the globe, it may or may not suggest the style of wine by the spelling. For example, most wines from the Pacific Northwest use the French spelling while most California wineries use the Italian spelling perhaps suggesting that wines in the northern climates resemble French wines while those from southern climates are closer in style to Italian wines. Although this is sometimes true, just as often, it isn’t.
The word Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris in both Italian and French translates to grey pine cone in English. That is because these bronzish black grapes, when ripe and covered with a dusty coating of wild yeast, actually look like grey pine cones. Incidentally, if the grapes macerate in the fermenting must for more than a few hours to give the wine more body, the wine can end up pink or even a light amber red. Personally, I’m not fond of that color in my Pinot Grigio/Gris but, it should not be considered a flaw, just a winemaking style choice.
In general, most Italian Pinot Grigio is lighter, drier feeling and slightly more acidic than California Pinot Grigio and by the way, usually less expensive. One reasonably priced Italian version is Ruffino Pinot Grigio from the Veneto region of Northeast Italy. It is somewhat rounder and more generous than most Italian Pinot Grigios in this price range (well under $10). There are plenty more good Italian Pinot Grigios under $10 and many 1.5L bottles for $15 or so.
Out of California, I like Menage a Trois, Cline and Estancia very much. They are about $10 and tend to be more fruity and rounder than most of those from Italy with a bit more alcohol and more body too. Again, there are lots of very nice California Pinot Grigios in this price range and don’t overlook Michigan. Black Star Farms, Fenn Valley and Bowers Harbor all offer excellent fruity, elegant Pinot Gris/Grigios for just a bit more than $10.
For the most part, French Pinot Gris grown in the Alsace region will likely cost $20 and up. They usually pack about 13-14% of alcohol, have very rich fruit and a big long finish. When you really want to splurge, pick up a bottle of Domaines Schlumberger (pronounced shloom-bair-zhay).
Oregon and Washington Pinot Gris tends to mirror the style of wines from the French Alsace. Most are about the same price too. My favorite is Joel Gott Washington Pinot Gris with the most brilliantly fruity nose and pristine palate one can get. Unfortunately, it will cost you about $18. A few that deliver excellent quality for the money are Columbia Crest, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Mercer Estates all from the state of Washington and in the $12-$14 range. By the way, New Zealand exports some exceptional Piont Gris. Wairau River is one of the more affordable versions.
Enjoy in Good Health,
Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner
Vice President, Due North Marketing Communications Inc.