Arizona Wines Prove Satisfying

We attended a tasting in Tucson with about 20 Arizona wineries represented.  We were quite impressed with the quality, though, we were just a little shocked at the prices.   We felt that the quality would stack up well against their international counterparts in a blind tasting so we went back to each winery that had particularly good wines and picked out enough wines for a Rude Tasting.  We visited a couple of wineries in the Cochise County / Wilcox area (just east of Tucson) and they were very quick to let us know that 80% of Arizona’s grapes are grown there.  Ironically, wines made at wineries in northern Arizona enjoy a better reputation even though the majority of their grapes are shipped up from the Cochise County / Wilcox area.   To my knowledge, all of the wines represented at this tasting in Tucson are from the area directly south and east of Tucson.  Apparently, the folks in northern Arizona and western New Mexico are more willing to spend money on wine than those in SE Arizona.  I couldn’t help but make a similar case for my home state of Michigan where most of the grapes are grown in the Lake Michigan Shore area around Paw Paw and Benton Harbor, yet, most of the wines in the Traverse City area are more highly regarded and often command a higher price in spite of being heavily blended with wines from SW Michigan.

As I’ve stated before, our wine tastings are double blind.  That is, only the host knows what is being tasted and the host does not know the exact order, just the topic.   None of the other tasters even know the topic.  The only thing they know is the color.  The wines are listed here in the order in which they were served with my score, the group score and group rank.  Here are the results:

Warm Up Wines (scored but not ranked)

2013 Zarpara Cochise County Origin (62% Garnacha/33% Syrah/5% Monastrell) AZ 15.9% abv $24 Noticeable oak in the aroma with ripe clean softly balanced palate; the high alcohol was not hot or cumbersome.  One taster suggested it is very Rhone-like. My Score 82 Points / Group Score 83 points

2014 Chateau de Nages Villes Vignes Costieres de Nimes (66% Grenache/22% Syrah/ 6% Mourvedre/6% Carignane) France 14.5% abv $14 Classic Rhone vivid fresh edgy aroma of red fruit with a rich body that mimics a Chateauneuf du Pape yet has that refreshingly zesty demeanor of a young Cotes du Rhone.  My Score 92 points / Group Score 83 points

First Flight

2014 Dona Paula Estate Uco Valle Malbec, Mendoza Argentina 14.3% abv  $15  Very ripe fruit frames the aroma with nice toasty, coffee-like oak subtleties; as it hits your tongue, the flavors literally flop open flooding the palate with loads of very ripe black berry fruit.  My Score 93 points / Group Score 83 points / 8th (last) place

2013 Deep Sky Vineyards Cochise County Malbec AZ 14.9% abv $26  Big green herbs and spinach with rich earthy accents somewhat like the local muck farms of my hometown in west Michigan.  Lots of exotic fruit layers with a distinct collard/Swiss chard-like character throughout.  My Score 84 points / Group Score 85 points / 4th place tie

2015 Deep Sky Vineyards Arizona Stronghold Series Malbec AZ 13.7% abv $35 Fresh red cherry-like fruit aromas lead while a softly balanced mouth feel finishes with silky smooth tannins.  My Score 81 points / Group Score 90 points / 2nd place

2015 Sonoita Vineyards Malbec AZ 13.8% abv $38 I have never experienced this aroma in my life.  This is not just a wine smell I don’t recognize, it is a smell I have never encountered before.  The best way I can describe it would be thimbleberry jam on steroids.  The aroma is hugely volatile intensely fruity with a slight mint edge and the very concentrated jam-like flavors carry throughout the slightly bitter finish.  This wine is a revelation!   The winemaker says it is typical of her previous Malbec wines.  Her father, Dr. Gordon Dutt, is known in these parts as the father of Arizona wine.  My Score 96 points / Group Score 93 points / 1st place

Second Flight

2013 Fenn Valley Lake Michigan Shore Meritage (Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot) MI 12.5% abv $18 Though not nearly as pronounced as the Sonoita, this wine also has a very intense jammy red fruit aroma.  That exotic fruit stays on the palate too along with rich firm tannins.  My Score 87 points / Group Score 87 points / 3rd place

2013 Saeculum Cellars Cochise County Gallia (53% Merlot/47% Cabernet Franc) AZ 13.9% abv $38 The huge nose typifies pure fruit essence and sweet ripe berry smells.   On the palate, perfect balance with seriously rich mouth feel exemplifies everything we like about Meritage style wines.  My Score 93 points / Group Score 84 points / 6th place tie

2013 Burning Tree Cellars The Abbot (58% Cabernet Franc/36% Merlot/6% Cabernet Franc) Paso Robles CA 14% abv $37 I inadvertently purchased a California wine made and marketed by an Arizona winery.  But, it gives us some reference as to the comparability of Arizona vs. California quality.   This winery is located in the heart of the SE Arizona wine country, so, I’m not sure why they are using California grapes.  The wine itself is a juicy, sweet fruit bomb with slight cola-like nurances, easy soft tannin and a nice black cherry-like flavor.  My Score 89 points / Group Score 85 points / 4th place tie

2013 Golden Rule Vineyards Cochise County Black Diamond (80% Cabernet Sauvignon/10% Petite Sirah/9% Cabernet Franc/1% Petit Verdot) 14.9% abv AZ $40  This might be the biggest fruitiest wine of the last four.  The super rich black fruit has real ballast.  I like the slightly bitter edge too.  My Score 87 points / Group Score 84 points / 6th place tie

Just a side note about wine shopping in Tucson; Total Wine is a great store with a huge selection of well organized wines at good prices.  My only concern might be the lack of enthusiasm of all of the employees with which I interacted.  Customer service seems to be a real chore that is clearly not enjoyed by anyone who works there.

Enjoy in Good Health,
Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner