Argentina: Gold Medals are No Fluke at Recent Tasters Guild Judging
Argentina: Gold Medals are No Fluke at Recent Tasters Guild Judging
The advice I freely offer to anyone looking for value on an unfamiliar wine list is to look for wines grown in Washington State, Chile or Australia. In general, these will be among the least expensive on any wine list or store shelf and usually will be among the highest in quality. At this year’s Tasters Guild Judging held in May 2017, we saw a much larger number of entries from Argentina than we’ve seen in past years. Actually, entries from Argentina outnumbered Washington State, Chile and Australia combined. I had always enjoyed the black wines of Cahors made from Malbec grown up-river from Bordeaux France so when Malbec from Argentina started to appear in the market a few decades ago, I naturally had to seek them out. Though pleasantly surprised, I wasn’t sure if a few good wines from Argentina were just a fluke or perhaps an indication of something promising. Over the decades, more and more money and expertise from the US, Europe and elsewhere in the Southern Hemisphere merged nicely with Argentina’s indigenous skills and traditions to create a whole new high quality wine region with unique geography and terroir.
In the past few years, Alice has modified her go to red-by-the-glass choice from Aussie Shiraz to Argentina Malbec. I’ve started to notice that it is easier to find an Argentina Malbec than a Washington State Merlot or Chilean Carmenere if looking for a great glass of wine when dining out. Interestingly enough, of the wines scoring the highest, there were more Argentina Cabernet Sauvignons than Malbecs. So, I did a tally of the Argentine wines that were entered into the 2017 Tasters Guild judging and here is what I found:
All wines judged from Argentina
Double Gold 6
Gold 12
Silver 14
Bronze 5
No Medal 1 (37 out of 38 wines received a medal!!)
Red wines judged from Argentina
Double Gold 5
Gold 11
Silver 14
Bronze 4
No Medal 1 (34 out of 35 red wines received a medal too, which says two things; first that most of the wines entered were red and also that nearly all of the wines regardless of color were good to outstandingly good)
Because there are well over a thousand wines entered, I did not taste every single one, but, here are my thoughts on the best that I did experience from Argentina.
2014 Bodega Estancia Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Argentina (about $10) Lots of clean rich currant smells with more blackberry flavors mid palate. It is rich and long tasting more like a $50 wine than a $10 wine! Enjoy it with a special holiday roast beef. SILVER*
2016 Finca las Moras Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon Argentina (about $13) Although this wine has spent 12 months in oak, the very fresh “nervous” smell gives the impression of a wine which has been aged in fairly neutral barrels. It is not oaky. Floral, spicy, forest notes and very bright red fruit aromatics carry over to the palate finishing as clean and as refreshing as it starts. Enjoy this wine with a protein salad and blue veined cheese. SILVER*
*Although the consensus score was SILVER, on my score sheet, these two (above) were GOLD!
2016 Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Argemtina (about $15) The rich medium red robe just looks like a wine with a huge complex bouquet. Aromas of stone fruits, both the flesh and the cherry pit-like smell, expands while hints of roasted meat and root vegetables lurk. This is a wine with a lot going on throughout the complex nose, rich red fruit skin-like dry texture and fleshy red plum-like flavors that carry through to the finish. I have to think of pairing this wine with rich winter time dishes such as pot roast, coq au vin or veal stew. GOLD
2013 Trapiche Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Argentina (about $18) A big cola-like sweet and spicy bouquet emerges while mature, elegant, Bordeaux-like dust, tobacco and leather combine with very concentrated black fruit all the way through; fine with lamb or veal chops. GOLD
2015 Navarro Correas Malbec Reserva Mendoza Argentina (about $18) Aged in oak for 12 months, the color is still remarkably dark red/black; nearly opaque. The impenetrable aroma shows a sense of seemingly massive fruit just below the surface but it is still hard to tease much of that out of this very youthful wine just yet. Subtle hints of chocolate, sweet spice and rich mouth feel keep this hefty wine supple and solid to the end. Enjoy it now with juicy steaks or a “five napkin” burger and in a few years, when it gains finesse and complexity, it will pair nicely with veal or duck. GOLD
2013 Bodegas Estancia Mendoza Malbec de Malbecs Los Helechos Mendoza Argentina (about $25) A rich black red appearance with lots of legs and a slightly limpid rim invites the first rush of wild bitter herbs backed up by an almost thick concentration of red plum and black berry fruit. As it glides across the palate, the wild bitter herbs stay put with lots of juicy fruit and firm tannin. The ample fruit would nicely compliment brisket or pork belly with a little Swiss chard on the side. GOLD
2013 “La Rural Vinedos y Bodegas” Rutini Antologia XL Cabernet/Petite Verdot Mendoza Argentina (about $50) The color is an extremely dense red, not black. Exotic sweet oak and incense-like spices combine with condensed black fruit finally finishing with soft plump fruit and a hint of smoke. It is an ideal partner with pulled pork with a tangy napping sauce. GOLD
Enjoy in Good Health, Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner
(for background and historical information on Argentina, see Tasters Guild Journal Holiday 2017 issue)