Rik and Kitty Scour the Wine Boutiques to Bring Great Zins to Rude's
Rik and Kitty Scour the Wine Boutiques to Bring Great Zins to Rude’s
No surprise that this tasting proved instructive with a particular
focus on Paso Robles
Rik and Kitty Vydareny welcomed us with a couple of warm up wines which we all enjoyed though did not rate. When I tasted them, I thought for a second that maybe Rik was fooling us with red blends instead of Zins. He is known as Dr. Zin after all so why would anyone think any differently? But, both of the warm ups seemed to me like they may have contained a bit of the Bordeaux varietals (Merlot and Cabernets). Many of the Zins had a nice herbal nuance. Not at all grassy; subtle and fine.
From there we proceeded to a flight of 2017 Zinfandels from various California appellations and then a flight of 2016-7 Zinfandels all from Paso Robles. We concluded with an older Paso Robles Zin.
WARM UPS
2017 Purebred Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel (abv 14.8%) CA $7 Rather light color for a Zin with clear red fruit aromas with a very subtle hint of spicy greens like arugula or horseradish. It finishes with very light berries and not much texture. My score 78 points
2017 Tortoise Creek Lodi Clements Hills Zinfandel “The Chelonian” (abv 15.5%) CA $12 Super fat, ripe and robust; full of fruit with lots of appeal in spite of being a bit one dimensional. The stat sheet says it contains 5% Tannat and 5% Petit Sirah too. My score 87 points
FIRST FLIGHT
2017 Fidelity Vineyards Alexander Valley Railside Vineyard Zinfandel (abv 15.1%) CA $15 The fine airy raspberry nose is clean and floral with hints of rosemary. The light palate has a nice red fruit character though fairly light textured. My score 80 points, group score 87 points, 3rd place
2017 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel (abv 14.4%) CA $25 Though very similar to the Fidelity above, here a richer texture of blackberries, plums mingles with a hint of green herbs with a dry clean finish and ample mouth feel. My score 87 points, group score 86 points, 4th place
2017 Frog’s Leap Napa Valley Zinfandel (abv 14.1%) CA $26 The stat sheet says that it also contains Petit Sirah and Carignane. To me, it tastes like a red hybrid wine grown in a very cool climate with a bad case of Brettanomyces. The funky, earthy, barnyard, forest floor aroma is quite over powering at first but does die down or maybe I just got used to it. Hints of clove, cinnamon and fruit liqueur linger into the finish. My score 65 points, group score 84 points, TIE 5th place
2017 Once and Future Sonoma County Frank’s Block Teldeschi Vineyard Zinfandel (abv 14.8%) CA $45 This wine has a big currant-like Cabernet type of nose and mid palate though the juicy finish seems surprisingly light and short. My score 85 points, group score 84 points, TIE 5th place
SECOND FLIGHT
2017 The Biker by Four Vines Paso Robles Zinfandel (abv $15%) CA $20 I love this type of wine! It reminds me of the old style Cal-Ital wines from areas like Cucamonga and Riverside that defined the California style of the late 60’s and 70’s. Green veggies integrate with lots of robust black fruit character full of chocolate and orange marmalade-like nuances. My score 90 points, group score 78 points, LAST 8th place
2016 Glunz* Bunzers Blend Paso Robles Zinfandel (abv 14.5%) CA $20 This is a very classy elegant Bordeaux-like red yet with big ripe fruit and big structure. Though I may detect a very subtle hint of barn yard (Brett?) it actually enhances the overall character. The powerful black fruit finish lasts a half minute. The stat sheet notes that it contains 15% Petit Sirah and 9% Petit Verdot. My score 100, group score 99 points, 1st place
2017 Paydirt “Going for Broke” Paso Robles Zinfandel (abv 15.2%) CA $20 This wine is a winner! The plump ripe red plum aroma and a subtle soft texture builds and builds eventually finishing with a bright red bitter (Campari-like) fruit. It has 6% Syrah, 4% Grenache, 3% Mourvedre, and 3% Petit Sirah in the mix. My score 93 points, group score 98 points, 2nd place
2017 Ridge Benito Dusi Ranch Paso Robles Zinfandel (abv 15.1%) CA $36 The bouquet can only be described like a very yeasty beer-like smell with infusions of mince meat fruit and raisins. The palate offers some nice black fruit and tannin finishing as soft as felt. My score 89 points, group score 82 points, 7th place
AFTERWARDS
Rik brought out an oldie but goodie from his cellar.
1999 Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel with 5% Petit Sirah CA A very interesting and inviting Indian spice and chutney with tropical fruit, spiced tea and an old woodsy component though still fine, clean and alive. Showing many layers of meaty stew-like flavor the new and old flavors merge in the glass. A dandy relic of the past.
Enjoy in Good Health,
A Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner
*Those readers who have been wine shopping in Chicago since the past century will fondly remember House of Glunz wine shop on Wells. Yes, this wine is the same Glunz family. The third and fourth generation has taken their passion for wine out to California and founded this winery now in business for over 25 years.
