Because of COVID, my sister, Linda and husband George had Christmas dinner with us instead of their son, daughter-in-law, grandchildren and in-laws in Cleveland. Their granddaughter and grandson (our grand niece and grand nephew) both had the Omicron virus, so they couldn’t really be with them in person at the table.

So, we roasted a new version of an old family favorite. This year, we marinated the prime rib in an herbal butter (rosemary, chives, garlic, shallots, anchovies, salt and pepper). I made an herb butter log as a garnish as well as slathering the entire roast. We marinated it for three days. It was not only very aromatic while it sat in the fridge, but filled the house with what we call the scent of the beast while cooking. Additionally, we served Yorkshire pudding and pan gravy, brussels sprouts, bottom of the bowl salad, and caramelized sweetened condensed milk with French vanilla ice cream. And, of course, digestifs afterwards. For the wines, we started with a couple of warm ups while the Yorkshire was baking. 2016 Vignobles Verzier Chante-Perdrix Collines Rhodaniennes Connivence (I’m guessing mostly Syrah), N Rhone, FR (11.5% ABV) about $14 on close-out speaks loudly of the Northern Rhone terroir. The very composty, pine needle, wild mushroom-like nose defines what I think of as Northern Rhone. It is equally interesting on the palate ending with a nice kiss of rich tannin. However, I think the relatively low alcohol fails to fill the mouth and doesn’t quite linger the way I’d hoped. Nice wine and useful with apps and simple foods. Also, before dinner, we tapped into a 2015 Clos de Roy Fronsac (Merlot with a little Cab Franc), Bordeaux FR (15% ABV) about $18 for a current vintage which lived up to its Parker 92 point rating. I think it still has a lot of future but it has really smoothed out and gathered quite an impressive bouquet of cedar, black fruit, forest floor and cassis for its young age. The palate builds on the bouquet finishing with a long rich mouth-coating feel of grape skins and berries. We’re certainly looking forward to watching this wine develop over the next decade. With the roast, we decanted a pair of ‘99s. 1999 Estancia Alexander Valley Meritage (76% Cab Sauv / 24% Merlot) CA (13.5% ABV) though not even remotely the same wine, the current rendition of this brand goes for about $30. This is what used to be additional wine made from Simi Reserve, Simi Landslide and various Franciscan Estate grapes. No wonder it was an instant success and quickly outgrew its grape sources. Not to say, the current Paso Robles version isn’t a delicious wine in and of itself, but, this one is noble! Looking back on-line, it did not get very high ratings upon release though today the pedigree really comes through. At age 22, it shows nothing but youthfully rich roasted condensed black fruit and a huge spice that attacks the palate while silky tannin washes it all toward the long cascading tumble of tobacco, kirsch, cocoa and citrus peel. This wine is a treat!! Our last bottle of 1999 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Gran Cru Classe Pauillac (mostly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Cab Fr and Petite Verdot) (13% ABV) Bordeaux Fr current vintage $600+ but I doubt that I paid more than $25 for it back in 2001 was also rated fairly low for a wine of this pedigree but, at this age it is drinking very well though it is not quite in the same league as the Estancia. The nose is everything a mature Bordeaux should be with scents of beef stew, peat, dried cherries and earthy spice. The very mild and elegant mouth feel followed suit finishing with mild but persistent tannin leaving a pleasantly clean dryness for several seconds. This is a very nice wine, but I’m glad I didn’t pay over $25 for it.

Merry Christmas and all the best for 2022,

Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner

PS From my sister and brother-in-law’s in laws, we received a bottle of 2016 Bodegas Torres Altos Ibericos Rioja (Tempranillo) Crianza (14.5% ABV) about $17 for the current vintage which we enjoyed a few days later. It clearly represents the new international style of Rioja not the old reserva style which spend years in seasoned oak casks. This wine has a dense black fruit core with just a hint of its terroir in the nose. Though among other similarly styled reds, one may still be able to pick it out as Rioja, certainly the elegant, terra cotta and ancient barrel smell that would normally be a dead give-away as to its origin is absent. Probably for most modern wine drinkers, this is a vast improvement, but for old guys who grew up on old wines, I’m not sure that losing its Rioja identity is for the better. It is a deliciously rich mouth-filling wine, nonetheless. If you like big Cabs, Merlots and Bordeaux, this beauty hits all the right notes. ABC