Back when Dr. Konstantin Frank and other industry pioneers founded the American Wine Society in 1967, the idea of fine wine coming from California was just starting get traction and fine wine being produced anywhere east of the Rockies was almost completely unrecognized.   Yes, Taylor and Gold Seal were making fairly respectable wines from hybrid grapes, but, no one (other than Russsian immigrant, Dr. Konstantin Frank) was successfully growing vinifera grapes in the cool upper Midwest.  Being that 2017 represents the 50th anniversary of AWS, the society worked with the Grandson, Fred, and Great Granddaughter, Meghan, of Konstantin Frank to put on a series of tastings commemorating the tide shift in fine wine production in the upper Midwest that his work created.  All of the wines below are from the three Estate vineyards owned by the Frank family in New York’s Finger Lakes district.  Two of the vineyards are on the west shore of Keuka Lake and one on the south-east shore of Seneca Lake known as the “banana belt” for its warmer seasonal temperatures.

This was NOT a blind tasting.  Everyone knew what was being tasted and the precise order, so, consider my comments as simply a narrative, not necessarily a definitive rating or ranking.  These are my opinions with little or no input from the rest of the 30+ attendees.  My scores may seem a bit low for these wonderful wines, but, trying to measure the wine in your glass to every wine you’ve ever had in your palate memory is very unscientific tricky business.

Chateau Frank Celebra Methode Champenoise (Riesling) $21  The bouquet and palate entry shows classic Riesling minerality while crisp, fresh, softly “off dry” fruity notes are balanced by acidity finishing fine, long and impeccably clean.  87 points

2015 Rkatsiteli (4,000 year old eastern European white vinifera grape variety) $15  The very floral emphatic aroma is reminiscent of Viognier.   The bright acidity with slight earthiness and lime zest crispness also shows some green herb components somewhat like a lean bone dry Chenin Blanc.  This is a wine to pair with spicy Thai and other Asian foods.  88 points

2015 Dry Riesling $15   Green apple, minerals, crisp mid-palate sizzle infuses many subtle nuances of lemon, star fruit, wet stones and long pear-like fruit stay throughout the long fresh finish.   This wine would also pair beautifully with spicy Asian foods, sushi or a Nicoise salad.  88 points

2016 Gewurztraminer $15  The big powerful earthy nose is loaded with spice and emphatic rose hip floral muscat-like zip.  Because these very aromatic grapes are the favorite snack of birds such as wild turkeys, Fred jokingly suggests that this wine pairs best with wild turkey.   In actuality, Thanksgiving turkey, ham or kielbasa would certainly be enhanced by this wine.  86 points

2013 Lemberger (known as Blaufrankisch in Austria) $20  Pretty black cherry red color with a fat chocolate-like oaky nose with Italian maraschino cherry nuances and a big confection-like vanilla cream finish.   Though the oak really shapes this wine, the varietal fruit flavors come through loud and clear.   Among the warm-up wines, we tasted a Zugibe Finger Lakes Lemberger.   The fruit profile was remarkably similar with both wines.  86 points

2014 Old Vine Pinot Noir $20  Bright fresh cherry-like bouquet and subtle toasted oak combine to show a wine not dissimilar to the petite wines of Southern Burgundy.   The color was surprisingly deep for a Pinot grown this far north.  82 points

2013 Saperavi (an ancient eastern European vinifera variety with both a red skin and red juice/pulp) $35  The dark black-red color is especially alluring with big deep rich ripe fruit aromas not unlike California Cabernet in its intensity.  Rich leathery mouth feel finishes fat and full.  Though a big brooding wine, it is still bright and fresh owing to its northern origins.  90 points

2014 Cabernet Franc $22  Though not as black as the Saperavi, this Cabernet Franc has great color and a really nice penetrating black currant fruit with a juicy, ripe texture and enough tannin to pair well with red meats.  90 points

2008 Cabernet Franc (from my collection)  Just for a perspective, we opened a bottle of 2008 Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc as a base of comparison.   This was a pretty good vintage in the upper Midwest and the ripe firm fruity nose of this wine reflects that.   We were all surprised that the fruit didn’t make it past the first sniff with the palate impression falling into something like “old varnish”.   While I have had many white wines from Dr. Konstantin Frank that have aged well for a couple of decades I was surprised that this Cab Franc was well past its prime.   If your experience with Dr. Frank’s older reds has been different, please email me with your comments.  Was this disappointing wine a fluke?

Enjoy in Good Health,
Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner